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Tuesday, we headed back to Tokyo Station. We took the Shinkansen to Hakone to spend one night in a ryokan- a traditional Japanese inn. Because it was only one night, and Hakone being more of a rural mountain town, we didn’t need to bring all of our luggage with us. I’d learned on social media of a company called Yamato Transport– where you can check your bags at Tokyo Station, and have them forwarded to your next destination- in our case, Kyoto. It’s a reliable, inexpensive service used throughout Japan. So we checked our carry on luggage and souvenirs, and took only our backpacks to Hakone.
Hakone was highly recommended from friends, who said aside from the stunning views, the splurge on the ryokan stay is worth it. Hakone is in Japan’s Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, west of Tokyo. It’s a mountain town known for its hot springs resorts (onsen) and views of Mt. Fuji. It’s a place where locals and tourists go to rest, recharge and take in nature’s beauty. We thought it’d be a perfect rest stop between Tokyo and Kyoto. There are a couple different ways to get to Hakone, and I really exhausted my research on this- so I’ll share! We started with the Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Odawara (33mins). Then we purchased the Hakone Freepass, which got us from Odawara to Hakone Yamoto on the Odakayu train (1hr). Then, once we arrived at Hakone Yamoto, the same pass got us on the historical Hakone Tozan Train, which takes you to Gora.
The Hakone Tozan train was really memorable- the cable cars take you through the mountains, ravines and forest for one of a kind views. It’s about 40 minutes, with three switchbacks as it climbs the mountain 209 meters. The switchbacks are a highlighted as the train comes to a complete stop, and the driver and conductor switch places, and then the train moves again in the opposite direction. We learned later this railway and the Rhaetian Railway in Switzerland share a sisterhood relationship. We got off one stop from Gora, at Chokoku-No-Mori, which is 2 mins from a major sight seeing attraction- the Hakone Open Air Museum. It’s an outdoor museum dedicated to sculpture, the winding paths across the vast space allow each piece its’ moment. Near the top there is a hot spring foot bath. There was a vending machine, to purchase a little towel to dry your feet after. We spent about two hours here, it was really gorgeous.
By 3pm we met a driver from Hakone Kyuan (which I reserved through Booking.com- the night rate was 97,000 yen/$650), a ten room cozy inn, each with a private onsen bath, where we’d be staying the night. I was able to book a car pick up from the Chokoku-No-Mori station, that would take us up the winded narrow road to the inn. We were brought a complimentary drink at check in, and chose our dinner and breakfast times. They also helped us pre plan our departure, and discussed some other sights we may want to see before leaving. We booked the ‘twin room with tatami area and mountain view, with dinner and breakfast in a private dining room‘. We soaked in the hot onsen for a couple hours before changing into our Yukata robes and heading to the dining room for dinner at 6pm. The Kaiseki dinner was 11/10. It was 9 courses consisting of fresh seasonal vegetables, sashimi, soup, rice, dessert and sake to drink. The chef explained each item and where it was sourced. We devoured every dish- and savored this moment.
The next morning, I did one more soak in the bath, before back to the dining room for Japanese breakfast at 9am. We had salmon rice, fish, veggies, miso and salad. We had our driver take us to the entrance of another popular Hakone transportation- the Hakone Ropeway. This is a gondola ride that suspends up and over the lush valley, with a stop at Owakudani, and then down to Lake Ashi. Along the way, there is clear view of Mt. Fuji, although unfortunately for us, we were completely surrounded by fog- completely obstructing any view!
It was a bit gloomy and grey, but overall still magical view of the mountain side. We then took the Odakayu back to Odawara station, to catch our 2pm Shinkansen train to Kyoto. We spend a little over 24 hours in Hakone, and it 1000% worth it!
